Vitamin C Derivative (Trisodium Ascorbyl Palmitate Phosphate)

In human epidermal keratinocytes, Apprécier generated higher intracellular concentrations of AsA than Ascorbyl PM (APM) or ascorbyl 2-glucoside (AG).

• [Methods] Human epidermal keratinocytes were cultivated with 100 µM of a vitamin C derivative, and the changes in intracellular AsA concentration were measured. (100 µM : APPRÉCIER 0.005%, APM 0.003%, AG 0.003%) 

   

Skin cells have site-specific functions. For example, melanin pigments are synthesized by melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, and collagen is produced by fibroblasts in the dermis. In order to deliver ascorbic acid (AsA) to all layers of the skin, Apprécier penetrates deeply due to its amphiphilic property. After permeation into the skin, Apprécier is converted to AsA by cellular hydrolases in both the epidermis and dermis. The generated AsA molecules inhibit melanogenesis and promote collagen synthesis.

In dermal fibroblasts, Apprécier efficiently promoted collagen synthesis even at a low concentration compared with other vitamin C derivatives.

[Methods] Human dermal fibroblasts were cultivated with Apprécier, APM, or AG at concentrations ranging from 1 µM to 10 µM for 72 hours. The amount of type I collagen was measured by ELISA. (10 µM : Apprécier 0.0005%, APM 0.0003%, AG 0.0003%)