Vitamin C Derivative (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)
Ascorbyl PM
About the product
Ascorbyl PM (APM, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is a stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative.
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Applications
- Skin care (antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne)
- Hair care (protection from chlorine)
Benefits
- Antioxidant effect
- Anti-aging effect
- Promotes collagen production
- Helps prevent spots and freckles caused by UV exposure
- When converted to ascorbic acid by enzymes in the skin, APM is expected to provide a variety of beneficial effects.
- Active ingredient for cosmetics and Japanese quasi-drugs
Characteristics
High Stability in Aqueous Solutions
The chemical properties of APM compare favorably with ascorbate in aqueous solutions. While ascorbate (AsA) was very unstable (open circle) and degraded within a week, more than 90% of APM (closed circle) remained even after 2 weeks.
Mechanism of APM Function
APM is an ascorbic acid derivative and is converted to its bioactive form, AsA, by enzymes in the skin. There are various vitamin C derivatives. APM has a phosphate group and is hydrolyzed by phosphatases. Other derivatives have a variety of functional groups, such as modified glucoside, acyl, or sulfate groups, which are converted by glucosidases or esterases. Since phosphatases act more effectively than these other enzymes, APM can provide a higher quantity of AsA and exerts potent effects in the skin.
Brightening
The following shows the effect of APM on melanin production in a reconstructed human skin model (in vitro).
Methods
- 6 % APM in phosphate buffered saline (PBS) on a reconstructed human skin model for 14 days
- N = 3
Results
APM application reduced melanin production in the human skin model.
Other Skincare Ingredients
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